Loengutsükleid läbitud: 4 6-st
Elu on vahepeal nii märkamatult kiiresti läinud. Suur osa erasmuslasi
lahkub selle tsükli lõpus, elik reedel. Täpselt sama plaan oli Simonil, kes aga
Hamburgi naasemise asemel otsustas ajaloo esimese plaanemuutva sakslasena
hoopis Lõuna-Prantsusmaale jääda. Ma proovisin teda sellest küll välja rääkida,
ent kuna Deloitte ja Hamburgi Ülikool erilisi komplikatsioone ei tekitanud, on
ta siin kolm nädalat kauem. Malte lahkub siiski reedel. Kogu selles
lahkumistuhinas hakkas mulle vaikselt kohale jõudma, et minagi pean varsti-varsti
koju tagasi pöörduma, olgugi, et siin on vaat’ et kodusemgi tunne. Ma lihtsalt
olen hingelt prantslane, suur Eesti patrioot küll, aga no läbi ja lõhki
prantslane. Tervitused vanavanaisale ja onu Bertrandile. Kuidas saaks mitte
igatseda Bordeaux imelist arhitektuuri, Garonne’i kaldaid, Lafargue’i väljakut
ümbritsevaid välikohvikuid ja õhus levivat vahvlite ja parfüümi aroomi? Kuidas
saaks mitte igatseda tänavanurga peal shanssoone laulvat vanameest ja Sainte
Catherine’i räpast kivisillutist? Pisikest pagariäri Victor Hugo nurgal, kus
imekaunis tütarlaps mulle värsket tartelette aux fraises’i pakub? Isegi
prantslaste erakordselt kaugele arenenud bürokraatialembus ei tundu kõige selle
taustal nii kohutav (kuigi mul on siiani CAF-ile umbes poolteist kilogrammi
pabereid esitamata).
Üks põhjuseid, miks ma pole palju teile kirjutada saanud, on meie praegune
loengutsükkel. Olgu, on selge, et siinset koormust ei anna eesti omaga isegi
mitte pinnapealselt võrrelda (Eesti haridus on tunduvalt nõudlikum), aga selles
tsüklis peame tegema mahuka grupitöö. Kõik kindlasti teavad, kuiväga ma
armastan meeskonnatööd ja grupiarutelusid... no ei. Suundusime informateeki, et koosolekuruumis
veidi projekti arutada, ent kõik ruumid olid paraku hõivatud. Prantslastel
muidugi suu kõrvuni – ilmselgelt tähendab see seda, et kas a) jätame koosoleku
ära ja istume Facebookis või b) istume kuskil koridorinurgas ja Facebookis.
Mina teatavasti üldjuhul komplikatsioonidest end häirida ei lase, seega kõndisin
otsejoones BEMi vastuvõttu ning palusin auditooriumi kasutamisõigust. Ühesõnaga
saime me oma grupitööd teha suures klassiruumis ning mina sain välja elada oma
professorifantaasiaid. Natukene „Piinatud geenius“ oli see küll, kui ma musta
markeriga kirglikult projektiplaani tahvlile joonistasin. Kogemused finantsvallas
ja energeetikas tulevad nüüd kuhjaga kasuks, kuna meie projekt on „offshore
tuulepargi rajamine Euroopasse“. Grupp koosneb minust, ühest sakslasest, kahest
prantslasest ja ühest portugallasest. Oih, andestust, kolm prantslast on
tegelikult, aga ühest pole ma midagi kuulnud. Tüüpiline.
Eelmine nädal oli Frankil külas tema parim sõber Hollandist, kes erinevalt
meist finantsinimestest tudeerib rahvusvahelisi suhteid ning unistab
luureagendi tööst. Ta oli oma suhtumisega midagi James Bondi ja Ban Ki-Mooni
vahepealset (kuigi teda end tsiteerides on tema unistuseks olla USA president).
Nojah, nagu ikka tuli alustada jutuga, et jah, Eestis on euro ja elekter (EU
toetusrahade eest ostsime eesli, kes dünamokaablit ringi veab, porgand nina ees
kõlkumas). Koos sai istutud nii mõnigi kord ja häälekalt EU teemade üle
vaieldud, sealhulgas homode õigused ja Euroopa Ühendriikide kontsept. Selle
blogi eesmärk siin pole neid teemasid arutada, aga väga hirmuäratav oli näha,
kuidas mõned aastad tagasi tembeldati mind hulluks, kui ma rääkisin, et EL
muutub Eüks. Täna ütleb mulle rahvusvaheliste suhete tudeng, „mitte ei muutu,
vaid see peaks olema meie kõigi ühine eesmärk, ainult nii saame hoida rahu ja jõukust
ja muutuda rõõmsaks globaalseks pereks“. Minuarust keegi juba proovis ühe korda
traktoriga tekki üle õnneuimas rahva tõmmata. Palusin Pierrickil kord mulle
selgitada, miks ta eitab, et EL on sisuliselt sama asi,mis NL. Tõin seejärel
näiteks kümme põhilist kommunismi eesmärki, mida saavutada püüti – EL on kaugelt efektiivsemalt kõik need punktid
täitnud. Mis on sel juhul erinev? Pierrick vastas – aga Siret, miks kommunism
halb on? Tõsi, igal pool siinpool Euroopat õpetatakse tulevastele põlvkondadele,
et kommunism oli õilis vahend kohutavalt jubeda Hitleri võitmiseks. Ühtlasi õpetatakse
noori häbenema oma ajalugu (nt prantslased sunnitakse Napoleoni vihkama) või
esitatakse seda ülimoonutatult. Saksamaal ei räägita noortele Napoleoni ja
Hitleri põhilisest sarnasusest: nad mõlemad soovisid vabaneda keskpankade võimu
alt – elik anda kontroll riigi üle tagasi riigi enda kätte, mitte alluda
pisikesele pankurite klikile (nii, nagu tänapäeval). Miks? Juba Henry Ford
ütles, et kui tavainimesed saaksid teada, kuidas rahasüsteem toimib, tuleksid
nad hetkega tänavatele. Casey tõepoolest polnud väga õnnelik, kui ma seletasin
talle, et tema majandust kontrollib Inglismaale ja erapankuritele kuuluv „pank“.
Kuidas on võimalik, et ameeriklased ei tea, kuidas Föderaalreserv toimib?
Tegemist pole ju mingi saladusega.
Lõpetades nüüd oma täiesti teemavälise traktaadi – külastasime Franki ja
Bobiga ka ühte klubipidu, mida me sageli ei tee, eriti pärast viimast reedet...
Nimelt tahtis Frank meiega hirmsasti välja minna, aga mina polnud sellest
ideest eriti vaimustuses. Lõpuks läksime ikka, sest „eelpidu“ toimus Apollo
kohal korteris (ja kuna mina elan Apollo kõrval korteris, siis polnud see
erilist füüsilist pingutust nõudev ülesanne). Natuke aega veetsime Frankiga,
aga kell oli juba kaks seega otsustasime, et läheme La Suite’i – tüüpiline prantsuse
ööklubi. Simon suutis kuidagimoodi oma telefonist ilma jääda, aga tänu tema
automaatsele piltide üleslaadimisele on meil olemas hägune foto sest klubist...
Väga traagiline lugu, väga traagiline...Mina samas olen nüüdseks neli kuud ilma
telefonita elanud ja ma pean ütlema, et naudin seda täiel rinnal. Igatsen
telefonikaartide aega, igatsen pargis kõndimist ilma kolme erineva seadmeta,
mis GPSi abil su andmeid lokaliseerivad. Igatsen aega, mil toidupakkidelt ei pidanud
lugema kirja „GMO-vaba“. Igatsen aega, mil vesi oli lihtsalt vesi, õun lihtsalt
õun ja kõik lapsed mängisid muda sees, sõid kogemata kirsikive ja ravisid
teelehtedega marraskil põlvi.
Lillelaps nagu ma olen, palverändur ja mägede hirm veel pealekauba, tahtsin
kogu hingest ületada Pont de Pierre’i ning külastada Bordeaux teist poolt. Garonne on päris lahmakas jõgi,
muide. Ütleme nii, et Emajõel pole eriti midagi vastu panna. Ühesõnaga kui
sellest ilmatuma pikast sillast üle minna, jõuab hoopis teistsugusesse Bordeaux’sse.
Istusime päikese käes (jah, meil on lõpuks ometi 30 kraadi sooja), limpsisime
Martinit ning otsustasime minna botaanikaaeda. Kuigi seal on väga põnev
muuseum, sattus meie reisi tippsihtpunktiks hoopis botaanikaaia aias asuv tilluke
välikohvik. Seal lillede keskel päikese käes oleskledes hakkasin taipama, miks
Vahemere elustiil nii populaarne on. Sel õhtul ootas meid laupäevaõhtune dinee,
mida seekord valmistas Frank. Nii, me läheme Simoniga varsti Düsseldorfi ja
Kölni – ent ka Hollandisse, seega Simon ja Frank räägivad mulle palju-palju
Hollandi toidust. Ma tõenäoliselt kirjutaksin nimed valesti, seetõttu ma neid
mainima ei hakka, aga suurem osa toitu tundub olevat õlis praetud suupiste.
Simoni kohaselt Hollandi päris küsiin on päris.. omapärane, aga mina Inglismaad
külastanuna usun, et olen kõigeks valmis. Seekordne shedööver kujutas endast
pastat suvikõrvitsa, paprika ja merenguezega. Viimatine on teatud tüüpi peenike
vorst, mida üldjuhul valmistatakse vana oina lihast ja ma pean ütlema, et see
pole minu eriline lemmik.
Pühapäeval, kui ilm oli peaaegu talumatult palav, haarasime hommikusöögiks
Camille Juillanilt kaks kebabi, istusime keset väljakut (kui keegi Bordeauxd
külastab, siis kebabikoha nimi on La Coluche, tellige üks grec, sans frites, au feta, sauce samurai ), toitsime tuvisid ja
arutasime, mis teha. Simonil oli suur plaan teha pesupäev ning minna metsa
jooksma. Kui mul viimati pesupäev oli, haarasime KFCist ämbri vürtsikaid
kanatiibu ja mängisime pesulas Neuroshima Hexi. Simon on aga pesu pestes
üldjuhul produktiivsem ning üritab midagi päriselt korda saata, nagu ka
seekord. Teatavasti olen mina aga kontrollimatu loodusjõud ning talle täiesti
arusaamatul kombel leidsime end hoopis Bordeaux’ rongijaamast, et võtta esimene
ettejuhtuv rong esimesse ettejuhtuvasse linna. Rongijaama sisenedes kuulsin
klaverimuusikat ning soovisin jälle kord, et mul oleks Prantsusmaal klaver...
Tere tulemast Sireti loodud reaalsusse – saialeti taga oli ei miski muu kui
klaver! Täpselt nii, nagu Barcelona peatänaval... Järgmine kord üks kaamel,
palun. Otse loomulikult istusin, seekord juba kogenumana, klaveri taha ning
esitasin ühe oma lauludest. Pärast video pealt oli kõige liigutavam näha ühe
vana mehe silmi... Ehk oli ta kunagi pianist, ehk tema poeg, kes nüüd elab kaugel
maal ja enam ei helista, ei kirjuta? Palju morbiidseid mõtteid täna.
Lõpuks jõudsime ka rongi peale ning meie sihtpunktiks sai Libourne. Otse
loomulikult olime unustanud, et parajasti on pühapäev (mis tähendab, et
Prantsusmaa on surnud) ja linn oli justkui mahajäetud. Oli hirmpalav ning me
tahtsime minna Dordogne’i äärde 800 aastat vana kirikut vaatama, aga
otsustasime suhteliselt kiiresti, et La Belle Epoque’i terrass on palju parem
variant. Veetsime seal tükk aega ning arutasime eriliselt pingsalt eurokriisi
ning väärtmetallidesse investeerimist, kõ rvale klaasike kohalikku valget veini.
Kuna mina pidin Jackiga kell 8 House of Parliamentis kohtuma, otsustasime rongi
peale minna. Kui me olime rongis ja Libourne’ist nii 20 km kaugusel, küsis
Simon – Siret, kas sa oma telefoni restoranist laadimast võtsid? Nali naljaks
(minu kõrval istuv noormees naeris küll kohe päris varjamatult), ootasime
järgmist peatust ja sõitsime tagasi Libourne’i. Mu telefon oli ilusti alles,
aga no kui me juba seal olime... Veetsime veel paar tundi Belle Epoque’is, sõime
maailma kõige paremat cassolette’i ja hurmasime võrratut kelnerit. Koju tagasi
jõudes jalutasime üle Place Lafargue’i, kus terrassid rahvasumma täis ning
pudipadi-turulised kioskeid kokku pakkimas. Hommikul oli keset väljakut lehm.
Ka tema oli juba läinud.
Sel ööl tundsin millegipärast vajadust magada pea teisel pool – mõnikord
lihtsalt tulevad sellised kummalised mõtted. Minu unenäod olid kirkad ja
imelikud, nagu ikka, aga hommikul kirjutas mulle vana põhikooli klassivend – „Siret,
ma nägin Sind täna öösel unes. Sul oli käes Richard Brautigani „In Watermelon
Sugar“ ja üleõlakotis tolmune pudel Sangriat, mille sa leidsid ühest hispaania
kirikust, mis kodusõja ajal sai saksa lennukite poolt pommitatud“
*********************************************************
ENGLISH
Sequences completed: 4 out of 6
Life has passed unnoticed at an incredible
speed. Many of the Erasmus students leave in the end of the current sequence,
aka Friday. Simon had the exact same plan, but being the first plan-changing
German in history, he decided to stay in Southern France instead of returning
to Hamburg. I did try to talk him out of it, but since neither Deloitte nor
Hamburg University caused any complications to the plan, it was thus decided
that he would stay three weeks more. Malte is still leaving on Friday. In all
this leaving haze, it suddenly struck me that I must return soon as well, even
though I almost feel more home here than home. Apparently, I am somehow totally
French, albeit an avid Estonian patriot. Totally French – greetings to my great
grandfather and uncle Bertrand in Paris. How could I not miss the amazing
architecture of Bordeaux, the riverbanks of Garonne, the tiny terrace cafes
lining Place Lafargue and the scent of fresh waffles and perfume in the air?
How could I not miss the old guy singing chansons on the corner of St Remi, the
dirty pavements of St Catherine? The small boulangerie on the corner of Victor
Hugo where the beautiful girl hands me a fresh tartelette aux fraises? Even the
French unbelievably far-fetched obsession with bureaucracy doesn’t seem that
bad compared to all of this (although I still haven’t filed in my 1,5kg of CAF
paperwork).
One of the reasons why I haven’t been able to
write to you, is our current sequence. It is clear that the niveau here cannot
be compared to Estonia (it is a lot harder to study at home), but we are
supposed to do a very comprehensive group project this sequence. I bet you all
know how wholeheartedly I love teamwork and group discussions… sorry, no. We
headed to the informatheque to agree on the pipeline of the project, but all of
the meeting rooms were occupied. The French were obviously glowing over that –
clearly this means that we a) cancel the meeting and sit on Facebook or b) sit
in the corridor corner and on Facebook. Nevertheless, I am not one to be
frightened by complications, so I walked straight to BEM reception hall and
asked for a key to an auditorium. I did get it, so we got to do our project in
a full size classroom so that I could totally enliven my professor fantasies.
Okay, it indeed was a bit of “A Beautiful Mind”, when I passionately drew
graphs and diagrams on the large board. My experience in finance and energy
sector is finally paying off, as our project is about “building an offshore
wind park in Europe”. Our group consists of me, one German, two Frenchies and
one Portuguese. Oops, pardon, three Frenchies, but I haven’t heard anything of
one. Typical.
Last week, Frank’s best friend visited him from
Holland who, unlike us financiers, is studying international relations and
dreams to be a secret agent. With his attitude, he reminded me of a weird
hybrid between James Bond and Ban Ki-Moon (although quoting himself, he dreams
of becoming the next president of the USA). Well, as always I needed to start
with explaining that yes, we do have the euro in Estonia, we also have
electricity now (we bought a donkey with EU support money who drags around the
dynamo cable, a carrot dangling before his eyes). We met quite a few times and
argued (loudly) over different EU topics, everything from gay rights to the
concept of United States of Europe, or European Federation. The aim of this
blog is not to discuss these topics, but it was so scary to see, how although a
few years ago I was labeled as a lunatic when I warned people that EU will
become a federal state, then today I have an international relations student
who tells me that “not that it will CHANGE, but it should be the common GOAL of
all of us, since this is the only way towards peace and prosperity on the road
of becoming a united happy global family”. As far as I remember history,
someone already tried to drive a tractor, pulling a continent-wide blanket over
a happiness-hazed society. Once, I asked Pierrick to explain to me, why he does
not believe EU is essentially the same thing as USSR. I brought 10 main
goals/methods of USSR as an example, showing that EU has far more effectively
manifested those ideas. Where is the difference? Pierrick replied to that – but
Siret, what is bad about communism? True, this side of Europe teaches its
future generations that communism was a noble measure to prevail over the evil
monstrous Hitler. Young people are taught to feel shame and embarrassment over
their country, their history (e.g the French taught to condemn Napoleon) or
teaching it in a very warped way. In Germany, children are not taught the basic
similarity between Napoleon and Hitler – both of them aimed to liberate their
countries from the authority of private central bankers, in an attempt to give
control back to the country itself instead of letting a small click of private
bankers run the ropes (as it is today). Why? Even Henry Ford said that if the
common folk knew how the monetary system works, we would have a riot on our
hands in the matter of minutes. Casey was indeed not very happy when I
explained to him that his economy is controlled by a “bank”, owned by England
and private bankers. How is it possible that Americans do not know how the
Federal Reserve works? It is not a secret or anything.
Anyway, trying to finish my off-topic rant now –
we also visited a club party with Frank and Bob, which is not a very typical
thing for us, especially after last Friday… Namely, Frank really wanted to go
out with us, but I was not exactly exhilarated… But we did finally go, since
the “pre-drink” happened at the loft above Apollo (and since I live in a studio
next to Apollo, it wasn’t really much of a hassle). We spent some time with
Frank, but then decided to go to La Suite – a typical French night club. Simon
somehow managed to get rid of his phone, but due to his automated photo upload,
we still have the last photograph taken with his phone. Tragic, so tragic… On
the other hand, I have lived without a phone for four months now and I must say
I am beginning to really enjoy it. I miss the era of phone cards, I miss
walking in the park without three different devices localizing your data over
GPS. I miss the time when you didn’t have to search for “GMO-free” food. I miss
the time when water was just water, apples just apples and all children played
in the mud, accidentally swallowed cherry pips and treated their bruised knees
with tea leaves.
Being the flower child that I am, not to
mention a pilgrim and a mountaineer, I wanted to cross the Pont du Pierre and
visit the other side of Bordeaux.
Garonne is a pretty big river, you know, Mother River has nothing to defeat it.
So in one word, as you cross that seriously long bridge, you get to completely
different Bordeaux. We sat in the sun (yes, it is finally 30 degrees here),
lingered with a Martini and decided to visit the botanical gardens. Although
there is a very interesting museum there, our favourite part of the trip was
the tiny terrace café in front of the museum. Sitting in the flowers in the sun
I started to comprehend why Mediterranean lifestyle is that popular. That
evening, we had the Saturday night dinner, this time prepared by Frank. So, we
are soon going to Düsseldorf, Köln and also Holland with Simon, so Simon and
Frank keep telling me stories about Dutch food. I will probably not spell it
correctly, so I will not mention any names, but all of the food seems to be a
deep fried snack. According to Simon, Dutch cuisine is rather… unique, but me
having visited England – I am ready for everything. This time, the oeuvre was
pasta with zucchini, paprika and merenguez. The latter is a certain type of
thin sausage that is made of the meat from an old ram. Not especially my
favourite.
On Sunday, when the weather was almost
unbearably hot, we grabbed two kebabs for brunch on Camille Juillan and sat in
the middle of this small adorable square. Should you visit Bordeaux, the kebab
place is called La Coluche, order a grec,
sans frites, au feta, sauce samurai. We we feeding the pigeons and
discussing what to do next – Simon had a big plan of a laundry day and jogging
in the woods. The last time I had my laundry day, we grabbed a bucket of hot
wings from KFC, sat in the Laundromat and played Neuroshima Hex for an hour,
but Simon tries to actually be productive while he is doing laundry – just like
this time. However, I am an uncontrollable force of nature so unbeknownst to
Simon, he didn’t realize how, but we found ourselves in Bordeaux main train
station, to take the first random train to the first random town. As we entered
the station, I heard piano music and wished again that I would have a piano in
France… Welcome to the Siret-created reality! Behind the small boulangerie,
there was naught but a piano! Exactly like on the main street of Barcelona…
Next time, I will wish for a camel. Most certainly I took a seat, this time more
experienced, and sang one of my songs. When I was looking at the video
afterwards, I was incredibly moved by
the eyes of a very old man watching me play… Perhaps he used to be a pianist
once, or maybe his son, who lives far away now, and never calls or writes? So
many morbid thoughts today.
We did make it on the train finally and our
destination appeared to be a town called Libourne. Obviously we had forgotten
that it is Sunday, which means France is dead. The town was completely
deserted, it was so, SO hot and we wanted to go to the banks of Dordogne to see
an 800-year old church. Soon, we decided that the terrace of La Belle Epoque
brasserie is a much more viable option. We spent a lot of time on that terrace,
passionately debating over the euro crisis and investing in precious metals,
accompanied by a glass of local white wine. Since I had to meet Jack at 8 at
House of Parliament, we decided to catch the train. On the train, about 20
kilometres out of Libourne, Simon asked me if I took my phone from charging at
the restaurant. Okay, it is not actually that funny (although the guy next to
me in the train laughed rather shamelessly), so we had to leave at the next
stop and ride back to Libourne. The second time around was even nicer – we got
our phone and thought that since we are anyway there… We spent some more hours
there, ate the world’s best cassolette and charmed the amazing waiter. As we
went back home, we walked over Place Lafargue, terraces lined with buzzing
crowds and thrift market vendors taking down their kiosks. In the morning, there
was a cow on the square. He had also left.
That night, for some reason, I felt the need to
sleep my head on the other side, where usually my feet are – sometimes you just
feel like it. My dreams were still bright and bizarre like always, but in the morning
I got an unexpected letter from an old classmate from my middle school. He
wrote, “Siret, I had a dream about you tonight. You had a book in your hand,
Richard Brautigan’s “In Watermelon Sugar”, and in your shoulder bag a dusty
bottle of sangria that you found in a Spanish church that was bombed by German
air force during the civil war”
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viimane pilt, mis Simoni telefoniga tehtud | the last picture of Simon's brave HTC |
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genius at work |
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Pesupäeva KFC | KFC on laundry day |
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Deutschland, Eesti, Holland |
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Holland, Eesti, Holland |
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Poolel teel üle Garonne'i | Half way across Garonne |
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Botaanikaaia kohvik | Cafe of the botanical gardens |
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LEHM! | cow |
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Libourne |
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